Saturday, April 2, 2011

Part I: Mumbai

All of March, I was super excited for this trip.  I would spend 6 days in the Land of Kings with my father, brother, and the lovely Julia Susuni.  My mother unfortunately was not able to make it.  All month, plans had been changing constantly.  First Julia was supposed to come earlier than my dad and Chris, then my dad decided to come a few days earlier so he could fly to Bangalore for business, then my brother decided to come a day earlier.... Anyways, finally the plans got set.  Dad would arrive on Wednesday, March 9th, fly to Bangalore for business on the 10th, and come back to Mumbai on the 11th.  Chris and Julia were each flying into Newark from their respective college towns and then taking the same flight to Mumbai together, also arriving on the 11th at night.  Then, one day in Mumbai, 6 days in Rajasthan, one day in Mumbai, and they would all leave together late that night (the 19th), heading back to the US of A.  That was the plan.  I had been planning it out for a few weeks.  My biggest problem with planning was this: There are so many places I want to take them to eat in Mumbai, but we will only have 7 meals together in Mumbai.  What am I going to do?  Sighhhh life is so tough.....  In fact, food honestly was a big concern to me, especially in Rajasthan.  I have been raving about the food since I have been here, so I want to make sure that we eat at good places, but I don't know Rajasthan.  That means I have to leave it up to the tour guide to take us to delicious restaurants/food stands, but there is always the chance that he will take us to touristy restaurants just like my previous weekend in Delhi/Agra....  I ended up calling up my travel agent (same one as before) 4 times to tell him to that he should inform our tour guides to take us to restaurants where the locals eat.  Not touristy places.  Do you think that worked?  I guess you will just have to wait and see! =)

My dad arrived arrived around 11:00 PM Wednesday night.  One of Rajiv's friends, Sanjay, drove me to the airport to pick him up.  Within 15 mins of arriving, we saw him emerging from the airport.  Visitor 1 of 3:  Collected.  I helped him with his bags, headed over to Sanjay's car, and then, as tradition dictates, went out for pav bhaji.  My dad liked it.  Obviously.  Who doesn't?  That made me feel very relieved.  I knew that Chris and Julia would like the food, and I was pretty sure that my dad would like it, but this was a very good sign.  I got up to pay for the three of us, but Sanjay told me, "Your money is no good here!" and insisted on paying.  My dad was completely confused.  It was nice enough of him to pick him up at the airport, but to pay for food too?  That's crazy!  I simply laughed and told him, "This is India, Dad."

The next morning, Dad and I went out for a nice long walk before breakfast.  I took him around Five Gardens, gave him a tour of some local universities, got some coconuts (another tradition), and then we finally made our way to Anand Bhavan for breakfast.  God I love that place.  For breakfast, we had idli sambar and mysore dosa.  I loved it.  My dad.... "It's different."  Haha he liked it, but wasn't used to rice and spicy food for breakfast, which totally makes sense.  It does take some getting used to.  Not exactly the same thing as a bagel haha.  While we were at breakfast, the owner of the restaurant came over, sat down at our table, and started showing me a scrapbook of the India-Pakistan War of 1965.  There were pictures and newspaper clippings, and he was explaining everything to me in broken English.  Very interesting.  Again, took my dad by surprise.  It is not every day that the restaurant owner sits down at your table to show you a scrapbook lol.



After breakfast, we headed off to the market.  First stop- jewelry store.  My dad was interesting in seeing what Indian jewelry is like.  It was... much more intense than he expected.  The necklaces and earrings that we saw were very big and had a lot going on.  There wasn't much "simple" jewelry in that store.  We soon left and continued walking through the market.  We ran into my favorite man in the market (still don't know his actual name) and had a nice little conversation with him.  He asked my dad what he thought of India, what weather was like in America, if he liked Obama, and if we were still in a recession.  Lol funny guy.  We continued walking, stopping every now and then to say hi or shake someone's hand.  I showed him the train station, a shoe store (got him a nice pair of sandals), and after a little while, we headed back home.  Later that day, he flew off to Bangalore for business.  And now we fast forward.

The day was March 11th.  A Friday.  The time was 6:15 AM.  I woke up in excitement.  This would be the day.  The day that the real vacation began.  In only 17 hours, all three people would be here.  So.  Pumped.  I decided to check my email, and had a few emails from Julia entitled "New Flight Information".  Checked my calendar.  No, it was not April Fool's Day.  These must be legit.  Opened them anddddd.... Her connecting flight from DC to Newark was delayed by 3 hours, causing her to miss her flight to India.  Rescheduled for the next day.  She had spent all night trying to get a hold of my mom so she could tell my brother that she could not make the flight.  Complete mess.  Anyways, my brother got the message shortly before he boarded the plane to India, so that was good.  In fact, Chris' connecting flight to Newark was also delayed., but he fortunately had enough layover time to still make his Newark-Mumbai flight.  Anyways.... I was pretty bummed out.  Not only was she arriving a day late, but now it made my choice of meals in Mumbai even trickier.

Back to my current day.  Had to pick up my dad from the airport.  Fortunately, we had a car and driver.  Unfortunately, I found out halfway through the day that his parents just found a bride for him, so he left to go home and get married, leaving us driverless.  Onto Plan B.  I called up my dad, told him to take a prepaid taxi to Five Gardens (I knew the he would recognize the area since we had walked around the gardens a few times), and told him that I would pick him up there.  I also told him to call me when he got off the plane/into the taxi to let me know when to meet him in Five Gardens.  When I didn't get a call for an hour-ish after I expected to get one, I decided to call him back.  Turns out, he just didn't know how to call my phone (international dialing can be tricky).  He was in the taxi and should be there in a half hour.  Awesome.  Went to Five Gardens in a half hour, called him up, and he said that he was having trouble getting there.  The driver had no idea where Five Gardens was lol.  After another 15 minutes on the phone, I finally met found him.  Visitor 1 of 3:  Collected (again).  When he got out of the taxi, the driver was asking for more money.  Which is absurd, since it is a prepaid taxi.  He wanted double the money.  Nice try, dude.  After talking to my dad, I discovered that this taxi driver also tried to kick my dad out of the taxi in the slums.  Thank god he didn't get out.  That would have been bad.  However, all was good, and we were off to dinner.  Gypsy Chinese.

The food was, of course, amazing.  They break a few rules on my Touristy Restaurant Checklist, but the food is really good.  Chinese food with an Indian twist.  Tastes much better than Chinese food in New Jersey.  Tastes... Healthier.  Fresher.  Not very Indian, but good quality food.  Over dinner, we talked about his business trip to Bangalore.  Story time!!  When he was in Bangalore, his bathroom light wasn't working.  After fiddling with it for a little bit, trying to get it to work, the whole light panel fell off.  It was 11:30 at night.  He called the front desk to let them know, and within a few minutes, someone was there to see what was wrong/if they could fix it.  And then the manager of the hotel came up to see if he wanted anything.  "Are you tired?  Do you want to go to bed?  Would you like a new room?  Would you like some coffee?  Tea?  Would you like a wakeup call in the morning?  7:00 sound good?  Would you like some tea 5 minutes later too?"  The light was fixed within a half hour, he got a wake up call at 7:00, and at 7:05 there was a knock on his door.  Tea.  He was amazed at the service.  "They must really want people to come back!"  No Dad, it has nothing to do with keeping customers.  That is called Indian hospitality.

After dinner, I dropped my dad back at my apartment so that he could use my computer, and I headed out with Rajiv to pick up my brother.  Within a half hour of arriving at the airport, we found Chris.  Visitor 2 of 3: Collected.  The look on his face when he looked around at the palm trees was priceless.  I could tell that this all seemed like a dream to him.  He couldn't believe that he was actually here in India with me.  Crazy.  When we got home, we dropped off his bags, picked up my dad, and the four of us headed off to dinner.  What did we have?  You guessed it.  Pav bhaji.  Walked to a new place that I had not tried yet.  I was somewhat scared, because I was not positive that it was good food.  I assumed it was, but I had not had it myself.  Turns out, it was fantastic.  He loved it.  In fact, it was one of his favorite meals the whole trip.  Chris absolutely loved the rolls.  Not gonna lie, they were pretty darn good.  After our short meal, we headed back home, chatted until 3 AM, and then headed off to bed.

Around 10 AM the next morning, we headed out.  Where?  You guessed it.  Coconut Corner.  Did Chris like it?  He loved it.  In fact, after having his coconut, he said that he didn't want to leave India.  Yea, they are that good.  The original plan was to go out to breakfast that morning, but since we got a late move on that morning, we decided to wait and just have a big lunch.  My brother wanted some sandals, so I decided to him to a sandal store.  Took him to the same place that I took my dad the other day, but he didn't find anything that he liked.  So we headed off to another shoe store.  Fortunately, there were 3 more about 10 minutes away.  On the way, we passed my favorite sweet store.  Both of them very pretty hungry, so I figured this might hold them off for a while.  Unfortunately, the owner was not there.  However, we were still fed ridiculous amounts of food, simply because they wanted my brother and father to try their sweets and snacks. A few minutes and many snacks later, we headed back out to the sandal store.  Sure enough, he found some sandals he liked.  On the way to our lunch place, we passed some beggars.  With whips.  My dad and brother were... surprised.  It is a pretty crazy sight.



Next culture shock- lunch.  We went to a restaurant where you could either choose limited amounts of food, or unlimited.  We chose unlimited.  $2 a person.  So we sat down, they laid out banana leaves for us (those were our plates), and multiple servers came around and plopped some food down on our leaves.  Whenever you finished a food on your leaf, the server would come around and ask if you wanted more.  Of course, this meal was eaten all with our hands.  Rather, hand.  I loved it.  Chris loved it.  Dad... liked the Chinese food much better lol.  I brought my camera out with me specifically to take pictures of this meal, but when I saw the food in front of me I got super excited and completely forgot to take pictures.  Sorry guys.  =(

After lunch, we decided to head home to relax for a few hours.  On the way back, I had to stop by one store to recharge my USB modem (internet).  While I was inside, my dad and brother decided to sit outside and talk.  A few minutes later, I emerged from the store and saw a bunch of little kids surrounding my dad and brother, asking for money.  I quickly told my dad and brother to come along with me, and we began walking away.  However, as we started walking away from the kids, they started grabbing our arms, still asking for money.  After a block, they were still following us, so turned around and yelled at them.  I feel bad yelling at such small kids, but it is the only way I have found to get them to stop.  Ah well.

After a few hours of rest at home, we headed back out, this time with Elaine.  Where to?  Street food.  First, we went to my favorite sandwich man.  He makes really good, really small veggie toast sandwiches.  It is very impressive how he makes them.  His hands move so fast, slicing cucumbers and tomatoes and peppers so thin.  Dude's got talent.  My dad did not want one, but the rest of us got it.  Chris... Loved it.  Seeing a pattern here?  Next, we went down the street to get my dad some wada pav, which is kind of like a potato knish sandwich.  He liked it.  Success!  Next stop... Dabeli, my personal favorite.  I have no idea what it is, but it is extremely delicious.  It is another small sandwich with some sort of filling, but I am not sure what the filling is.  All I know is that it is delicious.  At this point, everyone was pretty full, but I decided to take them to my favorite sweet shop anyways, just so they could meet the owner.  When we got there, we did not get the warm welcome I expected.  He yelled at me.  "Where have you been!?!?  I thought you left for America without telling me!!  It has been 2 weeks since you have last been here!!! Don't do that to me!!"  Lolol what a great guy.  He gave about 10 different sweets to my dad and brother, and was going to keep going, but my dad pulled me aside and told me, "Sean, you need to buy something right now.  I feel bad.  I don't want to keep taking his food."  The idea of Indian hospitality was starting to sink in, but it still hadn't quite hit him yet.  In fact, one thing the owner said when he was yelling at me was that he did not want me to come only when I wanted to buy something, he wanted me to come just so he could talk to me.  Moreover, the owner invited us over his house for dinner, right then and there.  He wanted us to leave and go back to his house with him.  And if tonight didn't work, then he wanted to have us over when we got back from Rajasthan.  Crazy nice.

After a solid 20 minutes of talking and eating, I bought two boxes of sweets and some water, and then we headed off across the street to get my brother some hand churned ice cream.  Guess what?  He loved it.  At this point in time, I checked my watch, realized that I had to get going, and walked them all back to my apartment.  They decided to hang out with Elaine while I went to the airport with Rajiv to pick up Julia.  We hopped in a taxi, arrived at the airport in 20 minutes, and after being there for 5 minutes, Julia emerged from the airport.  Visitor 3 of 3:  Collected.  We headed back to the apartment, but Julia was not hungry, so we did not stop for pav bhaji.  Tradition broken.  =(  After a few hours of talking and hanging out with all three of them and Elaine, we all decided to head off to bed.  The first challenge of the trip was done.  They all arrived, safe and sound.  Now the next challenge was to make sure they had a good time and did not get sick.

The next morning, we got up early, took our showers, finished packing, and headed off to breakfast.  On the way, we stopped for... Coconuts!!! Tradition 2- Not broken!  =)  Julia loved her coconut.  Obviously.  And then, off to Anand Bhavan.  I ordered a few different things so everyone could try something different:  idli sambar, set dosa, neer dosa, and sheera.  Everyone liked everything, but I think that sheera and neer dosa were the favorites.  Which does not surprise me, since they are all my favorites as well.  And to top it off, we all had some coffee.  Upon tasting it, Chris said, "Oh my god, this is the best coffee I have ever had."  Not gonna lie, it is some damn good coffee.



And that is it.  We headed back to the apartment, gathered our bags, and made our way to the airport.  Goodbye, Mumbai.  Hello, Rajasthan!

Sunday, March 27, 2011

The Taj Mahal is NOT the Best Thing In Agra

It's true.  I was there.

Okay, before I get into my story, let me first apologize for not blogging for a month.  During the last 3 weeks, I went to Delhi and Agra (hence, this post), got sick (damn water), did some work (I guess I can tell you about that too...), and finally went to Rajasthan for 6 days.  And then celebrated Holi.  And then got sick again.  SO MUCH TO SAY!!!!  For the next some-odd days, I will post every night.  Sorry for all of the erratic posting.  I wish I could say that it would change but.... It probably won't.  Next apology.... Sorry for making this post so darn long lol.  If you do not have any food or water with you at the moment, I suggest you get up and get some now.  You will need it.  Maybe even a pillow so you can take a nice little nap in the middle.  Third apology... I am sorry if there are any spelling or grammatical errors throughout this post.  I usually read through it once before posting it, but.... It's too long lol.  Anyways... Follow me, my reader, and me alone, and I will show you such an exciting adventure!


My classmate, Elaine, told Rajiv that the only thing she REALLY wants to do while in India is see the Taj Mahal.  That was her only request.  To be honest, if I left India without seeing it, I would be perfectly happy, but since she was going, might as well tag along for a weekend excursion!  And March 4-6, that is what we did.

We woke up early Friday morning (3:00) and headed to the airport to catch our 5:45 flight to Delhi, and arrived in Delhi around 7:00.  We were greeted at the airport with, you guessed it, a dude holding a sign with our names on it.  Love it.  Turns out, he was our tour guide.  He walked us to our car/driver, opened up the trunk, and pulled out two garlands to put around each of our necks.  Wow.  Look at that hospitality.  I could tell this was going to be a good trip.  The whole trip was booked through a travel agent, which I have never actually done before, but I have to say, it was pretty awesome.  He set up flights for us, got us tour guides, hotels, a car and driver, and it was all really cheap.  Sweet deal!

Wow, I haven't had tost in forever
Our driver took us back to our hotel, we checked in, but since it was so early, our room wasn't ready yet.  While we were waiting, we decided to get some breakfast downstairs.  It was..... Probably the worst meal I had in India.  I mean, it wasn't AWFUL, but compared to everything else I have had, it was pretty bad.  They had some Indian food, like idlis (steamed rice), but they were hard.  They also had some other food, like toast, but I refused to eat that.  There was some fresh juice though, so that is good.  Well, the sign said fresh juice.  After I had a few glasses, I saw a waiter filling the juice dispenser back up with canned juice lol.  The meal kinda put a damper on my "this trip is going to be awesome" reaction from the garlands, but I figured that this is hotel food- it will get better!  Go optimism!  After our meal, we went up to our room and both crashed.  It was a much needed nap considering we didn't sleep much the night before.  Anyways, we got up a little bit later, went downstairs, met up with our tour guide, and we were off to our first destination, Swaminarayan Akshardham.  Do not ask me how to pronounce that.


BAPS Swaminarayan Akshardham
I did not take this picture....
Swaminarayan Akshardham is a Hindu temple.  By far the most beautiful temple I have been to.  The architecture was amazing.  The layout was breathtaking.  Imagine a 141 ft tall temple, made of white marble, covered in over 20,000 intricate carvings/statues.  All done by hand.  Inside this building, there is an 11 foot gold-plated statue of the god Swaminarayan.  Now, take this building, surround it with water, surround THAT by the greenest, prettiest grass and gardens you can imagine, throw in some fountains..... Now you are starting to get the idea of what this temple is like.  The entire temple grounds is 100 acres big.  It was constructed in 2 years by 10,000 workers, completed in 2005.  Needless to say, it was impressive.  Want to see some pictures?!?!




Cameras were not allowed.


Wtf.  Really?  I found a few on Google Images, but even those are pretty scarce....


Elephant plinth
Exterior Carvings.  Pretty sweet, right?  All done by hand.






















Vedic consecration
Statue of Swaminarayan






















After we left the temple, we were off to another temple!  Lotus Temple.  Lotus Temple is a Bahá'í temple.  Again, do not ask me how to pronounce that.  The Bahá'í faith is a religion that accepts all religions.  The temple is open to anyone who wishes to pray to god, no matter who their god may be.  This temple was a stark contrast to Swaminarayan Akshardham.  Whereas the previous temple was extremely intricate and detailed, Lotus Temple is very plain.  However, it is also very beautiful.  How do I describe it.... It looks like a lotus petal lol.  Just like the last temple, it is surrounded by water (the moats were used as a cooling system so the temples never get too hot), which is in turn surrounded by grass.  Much smaller grounds than the last temple too.  I think that it is much less intricate because Lotus temple is a place for praying, whereas the other one was dedicated to a god.  Regardless of reasons, it was very cool.  And yes, I went into the temple to pray.  =)  


That water looks sooooooooooooooo refreshing.


After we went to the temple, the tour guide took us to a few different places which we didn't leave the car for.  Honestly, I have no idea where we went nor what we saw.  His English wasn't the best... Plus, it was impossible to take pictures because the driver never even stopped the car.  Therefore, let me skip ahead a few hours.  A friend recommended that we go to Delhi Haat, which is a shop, so we went, and it was pretty cool.  Mostly textiles and jewelry.  They also had a lot of really cool hand carved Ganesha statues.  Ganesha is one of the Hindu gods.  Very easy to identify Ganesha- he has an elephant head.  Almost every car that I have been in has a little Ganesha statue on the dashboard and many buildings and homes have Ganesha paintings; they bring good luck and prosperity.  Not a bad thing to have.


Our friend also recommended that we go to Red Fort and the Bengali Market and a few other places as well, but the day was coming to a close.  Red Fort has programs at night (I think a sound and light show), so we asked the tour guide to take us there.  He didn't really want to.  He insisted on taking us to a different place instead, Delhi Gate.  He said that we could go to Red Fort afterwards.  Remember the Gateway of India?  Yea, basically the exact same thing.  Nothing exciting.  Some little girl came up to Elaine and asked her if she wanted name bracelets.  Only 2 rupees.  So Elaine said sure!  Good price, I will get 3!  She gave the girl the names she wanted, the girl took some string, put little letter beads on the string, and made the bracelets.  And then she asked Elaine for 200 rupees.  She now told Elaine that it was 2 rupees per bead.  Never thought I would see a 5 year old scam artist lol.  Elaine got mad, yelled at the girl, and refused to pay that much. The ONLY good thing about going was this picture:




Moneys on leashes.  How cool is that?  Why don't we have them in New Jersey???  Fun Fact- I have seen more monkeys on leashes than dogs on leashes.  True story.


We left Delhi Gate and I was pumped to go to Red Fort.... But he insisted on taking us to see some other buildings first.  Again, I have no idea what they were, and we didn't go inside, just took pictures from the car. And then when we were done, I asked again about Red Fort!  He said that we missed the night programs already, so there was no point in going.  "Go to hotel?"  I was pretty mad, not gonna lie.  Anyways, I told him that we had to go to the Bengali Market.  He said that there was another market near our hotel that we could go to, but I refused to go to another market.  My stubbornness won out.  Go me.  =)  We went to the market, had some delicious ras malai (a spongy sweet in a flavored milk).  Made me happy.  Then, he took us back to our hotel.  It was kind of early (only 8:00), but we had to get up early to go to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, so whateves.  Slept like a baby.  Onto Day 2!


Woke up, didn't have breakfast because it was awful the day before, hopped in the car, and headed off to Agra!  It was a long, long, long drive.  We got to see some interesting stuff along the way.  For instance,


I spy a vehicle with too many people on it.  Well, I guess that doesn't narrow it down much...


was a pretty common sight.  Oh, and since we passed in between different states, our drive had to stop to show paperwork or something... And whenever we would stop, hawkers would bombard our car.  Rule #1- Keep the windows closed.  Within a 3 minute period, at least 10 people would knock on our car windows, trying to sell us stuff.  Rule #2- Do not make eye contact.  If you look at them, they will assume that you may be interested in buying something, and they will not leave.  The scariest thing happened to me, too.  I was following Rule #2, keeping my eyes inside the car, when I hear a loud THUD on the car door next to me.  Scared the heck out of me.  I turn around to see what it was... A monkey was sitting on the car.  On my window sill.  Now, keep in mind, I am following Rule #1, so he was standing on the slight curve of the door frame away from the window.  Very impressive.  This monkey was holding a banana in its left hand, chewing like a little kid without manners, drooling, and had snot running down its nose.  At one point he put its face up to the window and got a whole bunch of nastiness all over it.  Pretty gross.  The owner of the monkey was trying to get us to take pictures with the monkey.  "No bite!"  If you tell me "No drool", then maybe.


Fortunately, we got out of there soon and headed off to brunch.  Brunch was... also disappointing.  At this meal, I figured something out.


Top 10 Signs that You are Eating At A Touristy Restaurant:


1)   The menu is in English.
2)   They serve non-Indian food.  (Exception- Chinese food.  For some reason, most restaurants have Chinese.)
3)   They give you a fork.
4)   They give you a knife.
5)   They do not have the cheap, square, 1/2 ply napkins found everywhere else.  They have actual napkins.
6)   There are pictures on the menu.
7)   There are white people in the restaurant.
8)   The waiters know English.
9)   The prices are comparable to those in America
10) There are bathrooms.


Okay, I am exaggerating a little bit, but there is some truth behind each of those statements.  This place violated all 10 rules.  The most important part about the restaurant, of course, is the food.  These signs were just warning lights that the food wouldn't be up to par.  And it wasn't.  The food was just kinda bland, stale... Just overall not very good.  And the coffee and tea that we got at the end was upsetting too.  Neither one of us could finish our drink.  OH!  Another fun fact about the restaurant- they had cheeseburgers on the menu.  Nuff said.


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INTERMISSION
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We finally reached Agra mid-afternoon and checked into our hotel.  Very nice hotel.  I approve.  We met up with our tour guide and.... This guy was awesome.  AWESOME!!!!  Very cool dude, great English, knew his facts, etc.  He took us to a restaurant for a late lunch too, which was also a touristy place, so that was kind of upsetting, but I forgive him.  The food was better than the last few meals.  And finally... The Taj Mahal.


Cars are not allowed past a certain point for pollution reasons, so we had to hop in an electric rickshaw to get the rest of the way there.  And then we bought our tickets.  20 rupees for Indian nationals.  750 rupees for foreigners.  I don't even know what to say to that lol.  Before we walked the rest of the distance to the Taj Mahal, our tour guide gave us a warning.  There would be a lot of hawkers, and everything they will be selling is of awful quality.  If we want something, let him know and he will take us somewhere else to get it.  But most importantly, we cannot tell anyone that he told us that; he could get in trouble.  So let's just keep that between you, me, and the World Wide Web, okay?


Most people think of the Taj Mahal as that big, white building.  There is actually more the to Taj Mahal than just that.  When you enter the Taj Mahal grounds, you first enter through one of 3 gates to get to a sort of "foyer".  Just some grass and walkways.  Pretty nice.  Then, there is another gate.  The North Gate.  It is a very large gate made out of red sandstone.  Very dark inside the gateway.  That way, when you exit, the white marble of the main building seems extra brilliant.  Pretty neat idea.  And yes, it works.  Don't believe me?
Approaching the North Gate


Entering the North Gate

A Glimpse of The Other Side


TA DAA!!!!
Wow.  Its beautiful, isn't it?  That is the prettiest morgue I have ever seen.  Yep, in case you didn't know, the Taj Mahal is a morgue.  It was built by the Mogul Emperor Shah Jahan for his third and favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal.  She died giving birth to their 14th child together.  Shah Jahan was very upset, since she was his favorite wife, and he vowed not to marry again and to build her a monument as beautiful as her.  So, 21 years and 32,000,000Rs later (roughly $200,000,000 in today's currency), this is what we have.  The picture is a tiny bit misleading; the reflecting pool does not go all the way up to the building.  There is a small, square platform at the end of the reflecting pool.  This platform also has identical reflecting pools to the left, right, and opposite side.  So, basically, there is a square platform with a reflecting pool coming out of each side, which divides the grounds up into 4 gardens.  Why?  It is a symbol of paradise.  Heaven.


Guest House
The main building is made up of white marble, and has a lot if intricate inlaid work on the walls.  There are nine different types of precious and semi-precious gems inlaid in the Taj Mahal.  The four pillars are not vertical.  They are actually built at a 95 degree angle, tilted slightly outwards.  That way, if there is some crazy circumstance which causes a tower to collapse, it will not fall on the main building.  Also, to the left and to the right of the white building are two red sandstone buildings.  One is a mosque and one is.... for symmetry.  It may have been used as a guest house on occasion, but its main purpose was symmetry.  Pretty expensive symmetry lol.



Inlaid work with semi-precious stones.  Not paint.  Therefore, it will last forever.
We then decided to venture inside the Taj Mahal.  No shoes are allowed on the white marble, so the tour guide gave us little red coverings for our shoes lol.  We both decided to man up and just go barefoot instead.  So we climbed some steps, got to the first landing and..... Got in line.  There was a long long long long long long long line that we had to wait in.  Wrapped around a significant part of the platform (as you can see in the picture of the guest house).  We had to wait for approximately one and a half hours before we entered the building.  However, it was fairly easy to keep ourselves entertained, especially since there were....


That monkey needs to learn how to read....
MONKEYS!!!!

Also, the armed guards were fairly entertaining.  They would start waving their guns at people if they tried to cut the line lol.

Yes, those are the red shoe covers that we decided not to wear.  I just wouldn't be able to pull it off like those guards.
But eventually, we got to enter the building and.....I was super disappointed.  First of all, no cameras allowed inside.  Second of all, it was just a tiny tiny room with two coffins.  Replicas.  It was kinda dark in there too, so it was somewhat hard to see the decorative walls.  And there were so many people just pushing their way through that you kinda got swept along, so you were only in there for a moment.  There was so much build-up.  Flying to Delhi, 6 hour drive to Agra, all these awesome gates and beautiful buildings to entice you, a long wait in line anddddddddd.... That's it.  Ah well.



Picture Perfect.
Except for that tree.
To wrap up the Taj Mahal, I would like to go back to Shah Jahan.  He spent his entire fortune on this morgue.  One of his kids got super pissed that Shah Jahan spent the family fortune on a dead wife.  What kind of ruler would do that?  The eldest son always gets to rule after the father, but this kid wasn't the oldest son.  Therefore, he killed his older brother and threw his dad in jail for 8 years and took over as Emperor.  Thank god I don't have a younger brother....


After the Taj Mahal, we went to a store which sold inlaid work.  Different tables and stuff like that.  However, I am not in the market for a table, so that ended quickly.  We got a good cup of chai out of it though, so that was good!  And then we turned in for the night.


Day 3 of our trip.  Almost over.  In the morning, we went to Agra Fort.  The best place in Agra.  It was a fort used by the Moguls.  It was first built by Akbar, Shah Jahan's grandfather, and he chose to make it in red sandstone.  However, when Shah Jahan became emperor and used the fort, he added on to it, but chose to use white marble.  Therefore, it is very easy to see who built what part of the fort.  In some places, there is white marble resting right on top of red sandstone.  Pretty cool.  Oh, and yes, the fort had a moat.  Which used to have alligators in it.  Remember how I mentioned Red Fort in Delhi?  That is another fort very similar to Agra Fort (made out of red sandstone, hence Red Fort), so seeing how much I liked it, I was very upset that we did not have a chance to visit Red Fort when we were in Delhi.  When I told our tour guide this, he asked us where we went in Delhi, so we told him.  He laughed.  "Your tour guide must not have been certified.  He was only taking you to places that were free.  Certified tour guides do not have to pay to enter all of these cites.  He must have wanted to avoid paying."  Wow.  I like that Delhi tour guide even less now.  Also explains why his English wasn't that good....


What an entrance!
Anyways, back to the fort!  When we first entered the fort, we entered through a massive gate, and the floors were grooved.  Why?  So that when they rode elephants in and out of the fort, they would fit through the door and the elephants wouldn't slip.  Don't want your elephants falling all over the place.  After we got through the first doorway, we got to a grass courtyard with a giant cement bowl in the middle.  It was a bathtub lol.  Crazy.  Through the next doorway there was a pretty fountain and we could look over the outer wall of the fort.  We could see where the moat used to be.  Not much water in there anymore haha.


Cry me a moat


They should go on Trading Spaces
Moving on, we went into one of the daughter's living quarters.  I had a little bit of trouble imagining what it would be like to live there since there is no real furniture or anything.  It feels very empty.  Very beautiful, but very empty.  As you can see, this was made out of white marble.  It was for one of Shah Jahan's daughters.  And, as I said, they had 14 kids together.  Pretty decent sized room considering the amount they had to have lol.










Now.  Probably the most depressing room in the whole fort.  Shah Jahan's prison.  Ready?  




Yea, thats a prison.  That is a fountain right there on the floor.  In fact, Shah Jahan got regular visits from family members, got anything he asked for, but was confined to this room.  I was curious how his son "arrested" him, considering Shah Jahan had power.  Turns out, Shah Jahan told his son that he could have power and would go in "jail" as long as this room was his jail.  Why this room?  It has a fantastic view of the Taj Mahal.  Man, he was REALLY in love.


To the right is Shah Jahan's prison and to the left you can see the Taj Mahal 1.5 miles away


Next was the king and queen's pond, full of fish and everything.  They would sit on opposite sides of the pond and go fishing.  How cute.  Now, just like the moat, there is no more water and it is all grass.


Pic taken from the Emperor's side.  His wife would sit waaaaaaaay over there.
Garden next to daughter's room
There was some other grass too, that was actually intended to be grass, but thats not as exciting.  Just some nice gardens to walk through.  There were a lot of fountains scattered throughout the fort.  And if I recall correctly, they were all hand powered fountains.  In other words, they would have servants pumping water to make the fountains spray.  What a job!  We also got to see one of the mosques in the fort.  Pretty nice, but kinda small.  






Mosque
We saw many other rooms too, including one room completely covered in little tiny mirror fragments.  Really cool.  Overall, we spent a solid 3 hours in the fort.  And we were only allowed to see 20% of the fort.  The other 80% is still being used by soldiers.  I hope the moat on that side is working....


Thus ended our trip to Agra Fort.  I personally like Agra Fort WAY more than the Taj Mahal.  There was more to it.  More interesting facts.  More rooms.  You could see how it changed throughout the years.  I don't know... It was much bigger and there was something new around every corner.  Maybe I liked it because I have a short attention span.... Regardless, I loved it.  


After Agra Fort we went to an embroidery place.  I think that embroidery work is one that that Agra is known for.  At first, I didn't want to go but.... This place was awesome.  Like, legit awesome.  They made large pictures, like 2 x 3 ft pictures, out of needlework.  The pictures were 3D too; they would stick out about one in in parts.  And they didn't use anything to puff out parts of the painting.   They didn't bump it.  It was just layers and layers of string.  Crazy.  Extremely lifelike.  And with that, we headed back to Delhi.  


But on the way, we stopped for food.  =)  Yes, there is a reason for a smile this time.  I insisted that we stop at a dhaba, which is a roadside restaurant on the highway.  We sat outside.  The food was hot and greasy and I have no idea what was in it and there were a bunch of flies flying around and... It was delicious.  I completely understand why the tour guides didn't want to take us to local restaurants like this, but honestly, I would take that any day over touristy food.  


Oh Anand Family, How I Love You
Not much left to say about our trip.  After food, we just went to the airport and then flew home.


Whew!  That was a lot!  Thanks for sticking with me guys, I know it was a lot to read/look at.  Tell you what, I will reward you with a funny little story.  When we got back to Mumbai, we told Rajiv all about our trip.  We told him the ups and the downs.  The thing he was most concerned with was our Delhi tour guide.  He said that we should definitely tell the travel agent that he was not a very good tour guide.  Well, a week later, we talked to Rajiv about it again.  "Yea, I looked at your itinerary and then spoke with the travel agent about your Delhi tour guide... You were not supposed to have a tour guide.  I have no idea who hopped in the car with you and showed you around Delhi, but you were not supposed to have a tour guide."  Some random dude had a sign with our names at the airport, gave us flowers, and gave us a tour of Delhi.  Wow.  That explains a lot.  No wonder he sucked.


Can't believe I got lei'd by a total stranger.






Friday, February 25, 2011

Something Blue

I woke up today just like any other morning- tired and with a bad case of bed head.


However, after a quick bucket shower, some pump up music, and new clothes, I was completely transformed.


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What was the occasion?  An Indian wedding.

Yep, an Indian wedding.  I have heard about these magical occasions from many of my Indian friends.  Every story I hear involves many days of celebration, tons of amazing food, more people than you can count, colorful attire, and endless music and dancing.  Needless to say, I was super excited to experience it all for myself.

Before I get to the actual ceremony, let's talk about the clothing.  The blue tunic I was wearing is called a kurta pyjama.  Essentially, it is just a long gown.  The pants, called churidars, are made from a very light cotton, but shaped very strangely, as you can see in the picture.  They are tight around the lower part of my legs (my calves looked spectacular), very long so they bunch up around the lower leg, but very loose around the waist.  Not exactly sure why they are that loose, but hey, they are comfy, so I am not complaining.  

Elaine was wearing a sari.  Most of you probably know what a sari is, but if you don't, look to the left.  =)  There are many different ways to wear saris (different ways to wrap them), and she was wearing her's Gujarati-style.  (Gujarat is one of the 28 states in India.)  Which turned out to be extremely appropriate- even though we are in the state of Maharashtra, it was a Gujarati wedding.  And yes, she was also wearing Indian earrings, a necklace, anklets, bangles (bracelets), and even a bindi (decorative dot on her forehead).  I have to say, we looked pretty good.

I don't know where Indian weddings usually are, but this one was at Raghuleela Mall.  Yep, a mall.  Not what I expected, but amazing nonetheless.  Words will not do it any justice, so here are some more pictures!!!


When we arrived, the bride and groom were already in the middle of their pre-wedding games.  Apparently there are a lot of games at Indian weddings.  For instance, the bride was trying to put a garland of flowers around her soon-to-be-husband's neck, but his friends lifted him high up to make it more difficult for her.  It is supposed to symbolize that the bride will never be able to take the groom away from his family and friends.  After a failed attempt, his friends lowered him and he gracefully allowed her to place it on his neck.  More games- the groom's mother-in-law tries to get the groom's nose while his friends try to stop her.  The bride's friends steal and hide the groom's shoes.  Later when they get home, they put a ring in some murky water, and the bride and groom each try to find and pull out the ring first- the victor will supposedly rule their household for the rest of their marriage.  Every ritual and every game has some sort of meaning and significance.  It's pretty cool.  Not to mention, they can be nice little icebreakers for the bride and groom of an arranged marriage.  Continuing on...

Fruit Bar

Reception/Ceremony Area/Stage

Food!!!
FOOD!!!

MORE FOOD!!!!

EVEN MORE FOOD!!!!!!!!


Freshly made... FOOD!!!

The place for those who want no more food....
Let's talk about food.  As you can see, it is a very big part of the reception.  When we walked in, Elaine and I sat down to watch the ceremonies.  As we sat there, waiters came around with various fruit drinks and snacks.  And they kept coming.  As the ceremonies progressed, we noticed that nobody was actually paying any attention to the bride and groom.  Everyone was socializing and eating.  All of the above pictures were taken while the ceremonies were being conducted.  People say that the bride and groom often have the least amount of fun at an Indian wedding.  And I believe it.

Food was served buffet style.  It was being prepared right in front of us, for two hours straight.  Everyone grabbed a plate, a spoon, and a few little bowls for vegetables or beans or dal (kind of like an Indian stew).  See the picture with the "Used Plates" sign?  The host does not pay the catering company based on the amount of food eaten- they pay a flat rate for every plate that is used.   Therefore, eat as much as you want, but try to stick to one plate.  Not every wedding is a buffet.  At some weddings, hundreds of people grab plates and sit in a long line while the hosts go around and put food on everyone's plate.  When you are full and cannot eat another bite, they will insist that you have more and will literally put food in your mouth.  I totally want to experience that.  The trick is to stop eating when you still have room for a little bit more food.  Also, Rajiv told us that he has been to weddings before where the host will give a few rupees to anyone who eats every last grain of rice on their plate, and will give even a few more rupees to people who put some water on their plates and drink every last bit of food/sauce.  It encourages people to not waste food.  Plus, it makes washing the dishes easier.  

The bride and groom are Jain, which means that they do not eat meat, nor do they eat any roots (potatoes, onions, etc.) because eating the root kills the whole plant.  They take extra precautions to avoid harming any living entity, because it is unnecessary violence and causes bad karma.  Anyways, the point I am trying to make is... They were able to feed hundreds of people happily with just beans, rice, bread, paneer, and a few other items.  And my goodness!  The food was delicious.  I came hungry, and left happy. 

The bride and groom
 Most women at the wedding were wearing saris, but most guys were wearing button down shirts and dress pants.  I have no idea why.  Honestly, I would wear a kurta pyjama any chance I got.  They look fantastic.  Maybe that's just me... Anyways, everyone that was involved in the ceremonies looked super spectacular.  The bride and all of the bridesmaids had really intricate henna tattoos on their hands/palms/forearms (called mehndi).  Both the bride and the groom looked stunning.  I honestly have no idea what all of the ceremonies were, but I can tell you that they were on stage, under a tent, did something with a fire at one point, and had about 20 cameras in their face at all times.  They finished up their ceremonies right when people finished up lunch.  When people finished eating, they did one of three things- continued socializing, got in line to take a picture with the bride and groom, or left.  At least half of the people left right after lunch, myself included.  I did not get to experience the singing and dancing part of an Indian wedding, but if I ever do have that opportunity, now I have something awesome to wear.  =)

So cute.  =)

I had a great time.  Very grateful that they allowed me to crash, I mean, attend their wedding.  I wish them the best.  May they have a long and happy marriage!